Varsity

November 1998

Second-hand is Unique

By Polly Lau

     Wearing second-hand clothes is considered a must for teenagers to be 'in' and trendy. However, few know how the trend emerged. "It started decades ago in developing countries like Cambodia when people couldn't afford new clothes," said Raymond Kwok, the owner of Mid-West, a five-year-old second-hand store.

     "At that time, wearing second-hand clothing wasn't a trend or a fashion."

     In the '80s, people in the U.S.A and Japan became affluent due to the economic boom. People in these countries were no longer satisfied with the famous brands that produced standardized clothing. They longed for clothes which were unique and made them stand out in a crowd. Second-hand clothing began to prosper.

     "In western countries, recycling is common. Lots of charitable organizations and companies were set up to collect old things. We run an outlet in the U.S.A. that collects second-hand clothing. Its size approximates to five or six football grounds. Some of the clothes were manufactured decades ago," said Raymond.

     When second-hand shops first came to business, problems occured when people refused to buy clothes that had been worn by someone else. They thought the clothes were dirty and many parents discouraged their children from buying them.

     Argued Raymond: "It's similar to dining in restaurants, knives and forks are used by many customers before we use it. But would you mind that? Second-hand clothing is meticulously treated and washed before it is sold."

     The owner of Old-Look House, Boy Yip, has been a loyal fan of second-hand clothing ever since he was in secondary school. According to him, not much attention was paid to second-hand clothing at that time.

     However, thanks to the second-hand wave from Japan and local mass media's promotion, people's minds changed. Second-hand clothing is now more prevalent than it used to be. More and more youngsters have become obsessed with it.

     Boy thinks that supporters of second-hand clothing today generally fall into three categories. First, youngsters who see this merely as a fashion trend. Second, those who are loaded who tend to be more picky towards second-hand clothing. The last group are the devoted supporters of second-hand clothing. They are willing spend a large amount of money on it. They wear it as fashion and treat it with appreciation.

     In general, they are over 25 and they have memories of this style of clothing which were rooted when they were young. Wearing second-hand clothing, in their eyes, is like recapturing something which has been lost for a long time. Some of the clothes were manufactured decades ago.

     Said Boy: "I'm crazy about it, especially second-hand jeans, because every item is unique. Each has its mood and character. It gives me a great deal of satisfaction when I find one that suits my size and style."

     Most trendy teenagers belong to the first category.

     "I like to wear second-hand clothing because it's fashionable and makes me look smart," said Roy Lai, a 17-year-old student.

     Apart from clothing, there are markets for other second-hand products. One example is antique watche.

     Many people collect watches and admire them as if they were art forms.

     Raymond has been operating an antique watch shop for more than 10 years. He likes antiques and believes there is a stable demand for them.

     Second-hand sport shoes are found in Old-Look House though many Chinese cannot accept them.

     "There's a market for second-hand shoes but the supply is small because the market is being underestimated. As a result, it is difficult for second-hand enthusiasts to find the shoes they want.

     "The second-hand market isn't confined to clothes and jeans, it's expanding to other items as well," said Boy.

     For the future of the trend, Boy thinks second-hand brands with sporty and outdoor styles will become increasingly popular.

     "Second-hand clothing is a long-lasting trend. It'll still play a dominant role in the future."

     The owner of Joe West, Joey Fung, explained, "The demand for second-hand clothing won't slump even if the trend fades out. We already had many loyal supporters before second-hand clothing became popular."

     According to Joey, second-hand leather jackets are particularly irresistible. Their colour and texture are more natural and special than the new ones. It is difficult, if not impossible, to find substitutes for them.

     The above owners all expect the public to know how to admire second-hand clothing instead of blindly following the Japanese trend.

     Joey said: "We shouldn't be a copycat at all times. Instead, we should learn other's spirit and explore it.

     "Besides, we don't want the whole second-hand market to be so commercialized."

     Fashion designer Tufele Wong added, "Youngsters don't understand the meaning of the trend since they don't have the experiences related to the clothing.

     "Only adults born around the '60s will have deeper and more sensuous feeling for second-hand clothing as it fits the style of their age."

     As a local designer, he hopes Hong Kong can find its own character in the fashion world.

     Said Tufele: "Clearly, it's an unhealthy phenomenon that Hong Kong always copies the cultures of other countries. I'm sorry to see our trends are originated from other countries. If the situation goes on, Hong Kong can never build up its own culture."


     Store 03 used to sell second-hand Japanese clothing. Now, they are selling new items. According to the owner, Miss Rosalina Lau Yu-Bui, the change was made to sell first-hand products that look similar to antique because many people did not accept second-hand clothing in the past.

     "Nowadays, many old-styled but delicate accessories are being reproduced in Japan. These newly-made but antique-like products are very popular."

     At the same time, Store 03 is still selling some second-hand goods at a little corner in the shop.

     "We act as a bridge between different customers. They can exchange their collections here," said Rosalina. This is to remind people not to discard things easily.

     "In the past deacade, people were wealthy and youngsters could easily get what they wanted. The economic recession provides a good chance for them to learn and rethink. Sometimes our customers can find their dream items here," Rosalina said.



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