February 1999 Fashion PhotographyBy Jenny ChungAlthough most fashion photographs found in magazines serve to increase sales, some fashion photographers capture more than fashion. In December 1998, the Hong Kong Arts Centre and the Goethe Institute jointly organized a fashion photography exhibition called "Zeitgeist Becomes Form" Its theme is to mix art and fashion.
Said Mr. Oscar Ho, the exhibition director of the Hong Kong Arts
Centre: "The exhibition shows the development of fashion and the changes in the styles of
German photography during the past 50 years."
Said Mr. Ho: "Fashion photography in the '50s generally portrayed women as elegant and passive."Things changed in the '60s." Fashion photography started to explore the active side of women. Since then, women have been portrayed as aggressive rather than passive. Some photos in the exhibition were accompanied by warning signs stating that the works may not be suitable for children. "These photos are mainly works in the '90s whose themes are sex and nudity. Some people may find them very offensive," Mr. Ho explained. Ms Mika, a 19-year-old Japanese, commented that among the photos displayed in the exhibition, she particularly likes the photos in the '40s and '80s. They have strong characters with interesting styles. Ms Mika explained, "In the '40s, the photos were still in black and white. It is the unique style of the clothes that gives the photos such an impact. I'm really impressed. "For the photos in the '80s, I like their use of sharp colours. Photographers in that period opted for colours like red, green and blue." Ms Joni Chan, a Year 2 student studying commerce in the University of Auckland in New Zealand, said she likes photos that were taken in the '80s and in the '90s. She believes the photographers tried to teach the readers something through their works. Said she: "For example, I like a photo called 'Franerikke Halle' taken by Olaf Martens. "In the photo there are seven dwarf dolls standing around a female model. (See cover) The model is all tied up with her red dress torn. "It immediately reminded me of the fairy tale 'Snow White'. I believe the photographer tried to define a new meaning to the tale: Snow White might only be a stupid girl who is manipulated by the dwarfs." When asked if she thinks the photos are commercial, Ms Chan said that it is understandable for them to be so. "The main function of fashion photography is to sell the designs and the clothes. What's important is that the photographers can strike a balance between arts and fashion," she said. However, Ms Chan found some photos in the exhibition were actually challenging the fashion industry. Said she: "The photo 'One cubic Meter of Barbies and One Cubic Meter of Potatoes' by Gerhard VormwaldM challenges the use of models. "I guess the photographer is making a statement through his work that all the models are pretty much the same as potatoes." However, Miss Kristie Sin, a 20-year-old student studying Set and Costume in the Academy of Performing Arts, said she is more interested in photos that show the texture of clothes. In the photo 'Viscose' by Arbeitsgemenschaft Seidenweber, the special texture of silk can be clearly felt," she said. "The photograph can tell the delicate relationship between the human body and the silk." However, fashion photography concerns not only artistic value, but also the interest of the fashion house as well.
Nevertheless, Mr. Ho said although most fashion photographs are done
for commercial purposes, fashion photography can still qualify as an art.
Explained he: "When we examine a photo, we will weigh the artistic
quality, the creativity and the techniques used. We don’t judge merely the purpose of that
photo." In fact, the exhibition put special emphasis on photography. Mr. Ho said, "The audience may probably see more photography elements than clothes in the exhibition."
What local professionals sayMs Wendy So The Chief Editor and Fashion Editor of City Magazine We always come up with an idea first. For instance, we thought it would be interesting to publish a set of photos called 'Black, White and Grey'. We then proceed to develop the concept. Fashion is a tool to present it. I don't think fashion photography should serve as a shopping guide. It cannot tell people how to mix and match. If people want to look at the clothes only, they should watch the catwalk shows. Fashion photography is more than just a combination of clothes. It is the exploration of ways to interpret clothes. For example, a dress shot with colour film looks totally different from the same dress shot in black and white.Clothes are in fact not the most important element in fashion photography. Sometimes, in order to present the abstract concept of some photos, the images of the clothes are blurred in the photos. Mr. Tony Chow Assistant fashion designer for the G line in GEE Boutique. I would still be happy even if my designs are interpreted differently in fashion photography, as long as they are beautifully illustrated. Mr. Julian Gibb Visiting Fellow of the Department of Design in the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. I think fashion photography in fact helps narrow the gap between designers and consumers. The public, who are the potential consumers, hardly have any opportunity to see the original design. They are exposed to the design mostly by looking at the photographs in fashion magazines. I believe there is no conflict between the designers and the photographers.
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